The Çesme Peninsula, lapped by the waters of the Aegean Sea,
lies west of Izmir, in Turkey's
Aegean region.
Çesme,
meaning fountain, derives from the many sources of water found in the area.
It is one of Turkey's most beautiful stretches,
surrounded by clear blue seas, with landscapes of cultivated fields of
aniseed, sesame and artichokes dotted with fig and gum trees. In the un-spoilt
bays you can swim in absolute peace. Visitors will find excellent holiday
accommodations, restaurants and sports and entertainment
facilities. It is possible also to get to Greek island Chios (Sakiz) with
regular daily ferries. Çesme has an international harbor linked
to Izmir with a superb highway (80kms).
Çesme was captured from the Byzantines by a Seljuk Turkish force under Çaka Bey in the 11th century. With the decline of the Seljuks in the 13th century it became part of the Aydinogullari principality, which used Çesme as a naval base. The Ottoman sultan Yildirim Bayezit (1389-1402) captured Çesme, but after this ruler’s defeat at the hands of Timur the town was returned to the Aydinogullari, finally being recaptured by Bayezit’s son Mehmed I (1413-1421).
A 14th century Genoese fortress, restored and enlarged by the Ottomans in the 16th century, dominates the small port of Çesme and now houses a weapons museum. Today, the town is a popular holiday resort with good accommodations and restaurants. The 16th century caravanserai near the fortress, Öküz Mehmet Pasa Kervansaray, built by Süleyman the Magnificent, has been converted into a hotel. It's a a solid stone building in good repair whose central courtyard is cool even in the hottest weather. Before the rise of Izmir, Çesme was the region’s major port, and this caravanserai marked the end of the Silk road for the caravans who plodded their weary way across Anatolia from Central Asia and the Middle East. Here the goods were unloaded from the camels for export to Europe by ship through the Aegean and Mediterranean. The Church of Agios Haralambos has been restored as an art gallery. Thermal baths offer a health centered escape from modern life. At night a lively, fun atmosphere pervades, especially in the restaurants, cafes, bars and discos along the promenade. Yachts can be hired to explore the peninsula's splendid coastline. Çesme hosts an annual International Song Contest in July, one of the most important festivals in Turkey. Çesme is also famous for its mastic flavored ice-cream and mouth watering toasted sandwiches. Above all it is Çesme's beaches, the longest on the Aegean coast, and turquoise sea which bring holidaymakers back here again and again.
The very popular holiday center of Ilica boasts an excellent white sand beach and the outstanding facilities of the Altin Yunus Marina and Holiday Complex. The bay here is ideal for water sports, especially windsurfing and sailing; there is even an International Windsurfing Race held every year in Çesme and Alaçati, apart from Bodrum. The thermal baths around Ilica are very popular; the best being located on Sifne Bay. In 146 AD the Greek geographer Pausanius described these mineral springs as the ‘sea springs’ and claimed that their therapeutic effects were superior to any other spa in Ionia. They relieve rheumatism, inflammation of the joints, partial paralysis, digestive complaints, and infections of the spine marrow. Pasa Limani has a camp site which offers campers comfortable facilities. Every July on Ilica Bay, the colorful International Çakabey Optimist Yacht race is held.
Ildiri, a quiet seaside village 20 km. northeast of Çesme, was ancient Erythrai which emerges on the stage of history in 3000 BC. Excavations here have shown that the site has been settled since the early bronze age, and as a result the area around the village of Ildiri has been declared a national heritage site. The walls around the ancient city are still standing, and Hellenistic period floor mosaics of exceptional beauty can still be seen in one of the buildings. Excavations have also revealed a temple of Athena. Statues, jewelry and other finds from the city are exhibited in Izmir Museum. Those who climb up to the Acropolis at dusk are rewarded with beautiful views as the sun sinks over the bay and islands.
Nearby is Gerence Gulf, a pristine inlet on the northeast Çesme peninsula which can be reached by yacht or car. The natural surroundings offer relaxation while the bay is ideal for water sports.
Dalyan, a fishing village, built on a sheltered deep water inlet just north of Çesme, has some of the region's best fish restaurants which border the quay of the lively marina.
Tourist are attracted by Çiftlik's many accommodations and by a long, sandy beach (Pirlanta Plaj) just outside of town to the southwest. Camping facilities are available to the south and nearby stretches one of the area's best beaches, the Altinkum Plaj (Golden Beach).
Windmills, some of which have been converted into attractive restaurants, dot the hill above Alaçati, a delightful and typical Aegean town. Alaçati lies to the south inland from Ilica and the coast; a couple of kilometers to the south is a good beach. Many lovely bays, accessible only by yacht, stretch along the coast southeast of the town and ensure peaceful and relaxing anchorages in this popular sailing region. The sea at Alaçati has ideal conditions for windsurfing since it is exposed to high winds. There is a windsurfing school on the quay here which holds courses for beginners. Çark Beach is a favorite with families with young children because the sea is shallow.
Known in ancient times as Clazomenae, Urla Iskelesi offers a marina as well as plentiful accommodations in all price ranges. Restaurants on the top of Güvendik hill afford a marvelous view of the bay and its islands.
The prosperous little fishing village of Çesmealti is notable for its simple yet excellent fish restaurants to try Turkish cuisine.
As you drive along the panoramic Karaburun peninsula coast road, you pass several peaceful bays and quaint fishing villages, Balikliova, Mordogan and Karaburun. At Karaburun, pleasant hotels, tea gardens and fish restaurants sit between the beautiful mountain backdrop and the clear, clean water. From Manastir Mountain you can enjoy an unforgettable view of the Karaburun coast, the Foça coastline opposite and the entrance of the Gulf of Izmir. If you are lucky, you can spot Mediterranean Seals swimming in the water.
Gümüldür has good tourist facilities, beautiful beaches, restaurants and hotels. Nearby at Ahmetbeyli (Claros) to the east, stand the Apollon Temple and the remains of the colossal statue of Apollo; here you can also enjoy a good fish meal, try Turkish food or a swim at the town's wide beach. A winding panoramic coastal road leads from Ahmetbeyli south to Pamucak beach near Kusadasi.
On the southern side of the Çesme peninsula near the town of Seferihisar is the small picturesque marina of Sigacik. This important yachting center is surrounded by fortifications dating from the Genoese period and is a good point from which to visit the Temple of Dionysus at the antique site of Teos as well as the lovely Akkum beach.
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The small gulf of Sigacik on the shore of the peninsula south of Izmir was described by the famous 16th century Turkish navigator and cartographer Piri Reis as "an anchorage with water like yufka", in other words waters as soft and calm as the paper thin pastry, "yufka". Ancient seafarers discovered this hospitable shelter from storms 3000 years ago.
Sigacik lies between the headlands of Doganbey Burnu and Teke Burnu. Its shores
have been home to many of the peoples who made their home in
Asia Minor,
bringing their rich array of cultures, and the inhabitants of this
region were
aptly described by the ancient Egyptians as "the people who live in the heart of
the sea". Today Sigacik is a magnet for windsurfers,
sailors and, less
predictably, rock climbers attracted by the
challenge of towering cliffs on a small island.
Teos was founded in 1050-1000 BC, one of twelve Ionian cities. In this beautiful
part of the Aegean coast the people of Teos built magnificent architectural
monuments, such as the Temple of Dionysus which stands at the edge of the road.
The temple was built at the beginning of the 2nd century BC by Hermogenes of
Priene and is the largest of all temples to Dionysus
in Turkey. It was repaired
several times during Roman times but fresh earthquakes took their toll. Walking
along the paved road of Teos your eye is caught by a column capital here, and a
water conduit there.
Five hundred meters to the northwest you discover Hellenistic walls, a theatre,
acropolis and gymnasium. Inscriptions found here reveal that the gymnasium had
three classes and three teachers, two for sport and one for
music. Looking south
from the gymnasium you see a tiny jetty with bobbing rowing
boats. This is the
remains of the ancient breakwater of the South Harbor. Beyond is a tiny island
known variously to local people as Çifitkale, Çifte Kale or Korsan Adasi today,
but in the 16th century it was called Cüneyd Kalesi by
Piri Reis. Another alternative is the ancient Myonnessos. To
reach this island, so generously blessed with names for such a small place, you
must return along the road to Seferihisar and head south.
Hekataios of Miletus described Myonnessos as a town in the 6th century BC and it
is thought to have subsequently become a pirate stronghold (recalled in the name
Korsan Adasi, Pirates Island). The only remains from the archaic period is a 5-6
meters piece of wall on the northwest side. The other ruins and cisterns date from
Seljuk and Ottoman times. The names Çifitkale or Çifte Kale (kale meaning fort
or castle in Turkish) refer to the time when the last ruler of the Turkish Aydinogullari principality Cüneyd Bey made his last stand in his fort here
before being defeated by the Ottoman
sultan Murad II (1421-1451).
To see the island at closer quarters you do not need to take a
boat, but can
walk along the 80 meter long ancient submerged pier lying 25-30 cm beneath the
surface of the water. This is the way used by mountaineers who come to climb the
towering 62 meter high rock cliffs on the south side of the island.
Just as Sigacik Bay is a calm refuge for storm battered sailors, so Çifitkale
attracts climbers and those wishing to enjoy the delights of clear blue sea and
superb scenery. There are many small restaurants in Sigacik harbor where you can
taste traditional Turkish cuisine and local fish accompanied by glasses of
ice-cold cloud white raki.
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