ASSOS
Assos, the ancient Aeolian city clinging to a rocky hillside above
the charming and fairly sensitively developed fishing village of Behramkale
in the Aegean region, is a splendid retreat
from the hustle and bustle of many nearby 'must-see' sites
and resorts.
Only really finding it's place on the tourist map at the end of the
1980's the village has a relaxed air to it and although you may be offered
olive oil, soap and, of course, carpets
there is still very little in the way of pressure selling here. In the
summer you will find a phalanx of tourist buses dropping off day trippers
to visit the ruins and have lunch but the majority of them will fade early
to get to their hotels for the night and leave you to enjoy a rare tranquility
and outrageously unspoiled vistas across the bay of Edremit to Lesbos.
The acropolis,
built on a hill 236 meters above the sea level, dates from the bronze age with the city dated to the 7th
century BC. The sight of the defense walls of which 3 kilometers are still standing
inspires a respect for the masons who erected them 2500 years ago. And on the top
of the city the Temple of Athena, goddess of the
city and fine arts and war, has the best
place to watch the sunset. The temple has 6 columns on the short sides and 13 on
the long sides surrounding the building externally with one row. Sufficient
ruins remain to give the traveler an idea of the layout of the citadel
although the only intact monument is a mosque
with rather a checkered past.
The harbor is pleasant enough although you'll have to travel 3 or 4
kilometers to find a beach. A walk down from the upper village will take you 20
minutes or so, depending how many corners you cut on the hairpin road,
bringing you to a cluster of hotels, pensions and restaurants perched
on the edge of sea. Busy in the summer and popular with Turks
who are seeking a romantic weekend away or just change of pace, you're
advised to book ahead during June, July and August.
The best accessible beach is at near-by Kadirga, half an hours walk
if you follow the coast from the harbor or descend from the back of the
citadel above. Reasonable sand and not too busy as a result of the location.
If you don't fancy the walk you can probably hitch from Assos or try and
jump a fishing boat.